我在普洱喝了三天咖啡I drank coffee in Pu'er for three days
每天在咖啡店喝咖啡，不管是9.9元的瑞幸，还是30元的特调，见到的都是包装好的成品。久之，可能会产生类似“自然缺失症”的认知，即咖啡本该如此，或者忘记甚至不知道咖啡原是一种植物、一种像樱桃一样的水果，就像一些城市长大的儿童，以为大米、蔬菜来自超市。
想去咖啡产地看看，看咖啡种在地里、长在树上的样子，以及从一粒种子变成一杯饮料的过程。于是直奔普洱——云南贡献了超98%的中国咖啡产量，普洱则是云南种植面积最大、产量最高的核心产区。普洱年产咖啡5.8万吨，占全国咖啡总产量的近一半。在中国咖啡的种植版图上，每产出两杯咖啡豆，就有一杯来自普洱，可以说是名副其实的“中国咖啡之都”。
地处云贵高原西南的普洱，东接玉溪、红河，南连西双版纳，西邻临沧，北靠大理、楚雄；西南与缅甸接壤。白天最高温度28℃，体感相当舒服。满城的共享电动车，让我解锁一项新技能：骑着电瓶车四处游荡，迅速熟悉了这座飘着咖啡香的城市。
戴家巷咖啡初体验
戴家巷是普洱的咖啡一条街。这条200多米的巷子，曾是清代茶马古道上的驿站，现存9栋清末民初的老建筑。变化始于2021年，回乡创业青年将一栋百年老宅改造成集咖啡、文创于一体的体验空间，之后各种咖啡馆、茶馆、文创小店涌现，一时间“左手咖啡右手茶”。最火的咖啡店坐满了人，前台已停止接单，只有等空位出来才能下单。
街头的一块牌子让人忍俊不禁：“我在普洱忍你很久”，人们一边笑一边和这块牌子合影。一家咖啡店门口，立一只巨大的牛油果造型，牛油果拿铁似乎是普洱咖啡一大特色。请教了一下当地人才知道，原来普洱也是牛油果的核心产区，鲜果产量占国产牛油果的80%以上，直接替代了15%的进口份额。
·普洱戴家巷街景
牛油果的故事可谓峰回路转。这种原产中南美洲的水果真正走红，是近几年的事。因其富含不饱和脂肪酸，作为轻食标配，被贴上了“健康”的标签。但牛油果不酸不甜的口感，作为水果却很尴尬，直到与咖啡相逢，便胜却人间无数。
咖啡的醇厚与牛油果的绵密交融，碰撞出独特的味觉火花，成为许多咖啡馆的招牌。随机点了一杯牛油果拿铁，单吃牛油果味同嚼蜡，把它搅碎与咖啡融合，口味果然提升一个层次。
街口有一家臻象咖啡，招牌是手工酸奶dirty，搅匀喝风味独特。老板浪叔招呼路人“喝酒喝酒”（店里也卖威士忌）。一个熟客坐下来，点了一杯咖啡一杯酒，与人聊起天来。听他聊得头头是道，于是向他咨询，作为一个咖啡小白，在普洱的“咖旅”攻略。他说，他也是“小白”，姓白。
·臻象咖啡老板浪叔在烘豆子 图据/浪叔
小白其实相当资深，他现在是一位咖啡师，曾经做过咖啡培训讲师。在他看来，普洱咖啡真正开启现代化、产业化道路是在1988年。这一年雀巢进入普洱，在城郊租下8亩地，开始咖啡试种试验。在雀巢的带动下，第二年，普洱的咖啡种植面积已是云南省之首。
普洱人喝咖啡好像没什么时间上的讲究，白天夜晚都喝。“比如我晚上回家，咖啡也放在床头，想喝就喝，好像没什么反应，反正我睡眠挺好。”这让我想起之前探访合江荔枝（??《长安的荔枝要命，合江荔枝续命》），种荔枝的人也不太讲究吃法，荔枝配火锅下三黄片是常规操作。看来真正的从业者都有点“百毒不侵”。
·戴家巷老街的小店
这些年，数以万计的人来普洱学习咖啡，全国乃至世界各地的都有。普洱有点类似于“咖啡界的少林寺”了。小白接触过东南亚各国，以及瑞士、意大利、美国等地的学员，他们在普洱边旅游边学习。“高端课程费用1.6万元。比如你从成都来，机票加吃住行，10来天，怎么算也要3万元左右。”
普洱当地媒体报道：“普洱正通过普洱咖啡师万人培训支持计划，走出了一条‘人才+产业+文旅’融合发展的新路子，逐步塑造起一座充满活力的‘创业之城’新形象。”
有人在街头用老式手摇烘豆机烘豆子，像在展示或者表演，路人也可以体验。那个机器黑黢黢的，酷似包浆浓厚的爆米花机，但烘出来的豆子很香。我说，怎么感觉比成都的咖啡更香。浪叔说：“哪里哟，一样的。成都的咖啡很厉害，竞争很激烈，我去考察过。”
“新鲜。”小白说，“因为新鲜。”
“对，你说的对，一针见血。”我不能同意更多。
·普洱老街的咖啡店
咖啡庄园“九大杯”管饱
既然是“咖旅”，咖啡庄园就必去。不巧的是，天气预报一周都是雨，想到各种山洪泥石流的新闻，去还是不去，这是一个问题。正犹豫，就下起暴雨来。人们四散躲雨，街上烟雨蒙蒙。下午雨停了，太阳出来，果断打车上山，去小凹子咖啡庄园。
小凹子咖啡庄园距离普洱主城区约30分钟车程，有300亩生态咖啡林，海拔1100米，青山环抱，云雾缭绕，山间长满了橄榄球大小的菠萝蜜。
庄园创建于1997年，如今已传至第三代。目前，这里是一个集研学、观光、品鉴、度假于一体的复合型空间。电影《一点就到家》曾在此取景，它讲述三个年轻人从大城市回到云南古寨创业的故事，这与小凹子咖啡庄园三代人投身咖啡事业的剧情，在精神内核上颇有些相似。
·在“湖畔音乐厅”自助唱歌的年轻人
入园门票60元，包含一次讲解，9种风味的手冲咖啡，可无限续杯。庄园的接待大厅像一个林间车站的候车厅。一进大厅，就有工作人员将你引到座位。我坐在吧台，一边看咖啡师做咖啡，一边品尝9种风味的咖啡。
先上的是果皮茶，酸甜清爽。工作人员介绍，果皮茶就是咖啡果皮和果肉经过晾晒、发酵等工艺制成的茶。咖啡鲜果长得像樱桃，以前人们在取里面的咖啡生豆时，外面的果皮和果肉常被当作废物扔掉。随着对咖啡利用的深入，人们发现咖啡果皮含有天然的糖分和香味，冲泡出的茶带有红枣、山楂等果干的风味，是一种口感特别的健康饮品。
·在咖啡庄园喝咖啡的游客
接着上“初恋”。这是一款非常受欢迎的精品咖啡豆的名字，也是庄园的招牌风味。关于这款豆子有几个有趣的细节：庄园创立于1997年2月14日（情人节），而现在的庄主也是在情人节结婚的，因此将这款豆子命名为“初恋”。虽然有点牵强附会，但味如其名，有一点酸甜苦涩的味道，疑似爱情。然后是“邂逅”“凹之蜜”“凹之韵”“向日葵”等等，品到最后已味觉失灵，感觉都是一个味，不分轻淡。
咖啡喝了，开始科普醒脑。大家来到二楼一间会议室，工作人员打开PPT，开始了他风趣幽默地讲解（脱口秀表演）——
·咖啡庄园的咖啡知识讲解
“庄园的名字，可以读小凹（ao）子，也可以读小凹（wa）子，只要不读小tu子就好了。”
“地里的咖啡苗，你们要多少拔多少。各位，拿回去记住三点：饿不得，冷不得，热不得。饿不得，营养东西要充足；冷不得，不能低于8℃；热不得，不能高于38℃，所以南北回归线之间的气候比较合适。”
“咖啡树旁种荔枝树、香蕉树、榴莲树、芒果树，对口感有没有影响？你吃过芒果味的洋芋吗？没有吧。同株授粉，不受别的果树影响。如果你去买咖啡，有菠萝味、芒果味或者荔枝味的，千万不要买，绝对骗你的。肯定加了科技在里面啊！”
“早上空腹喝一杯咖啡好不好？记住啊，咖啡一般不空腹喝。咖啡因会刺激胃壁细胞分泌胃酸，高浓度的胃酸会直接刺激胃黏膜，所以建议搭配食物喝。”
“好了各位，咱们平时喝的咖啡叫‘牛马咖啡’，对不对？今天来庄园喝的咖啡叫什么？今天喝的是‘牛马给你做的咖啡’。唉，我去，天天在这当牛马，做咖啡。谢谢各位！”
讲解结束，准备薅几根咖啡苗回去，这时又下起雨来，只好继续喝咖啡。这天下午，喝了有史以来最多的一次咖啡，真的是喝撑了。反正第二天要赶早班火车去昆明，也不怕失眠了。
在昆明，作为“咖旅”的最后一站，我去了云南咖啡厂。这座中国第一家现代化咖啡加工厂，是1992年中国与联合国开发计划署的合作项目，它的建成投产结束了中国本土没有现代化咖啡工厂的历史。
云南咖啡厂内有咖啡文化馆，可以一站式了解云南咖啡历史、近距离观察老机器和树种，还可以体验手冲、拉花、烘焙等课程。展厅墙上，有一排“咖啡闻香瓶”，里面装着世界各地的咖啡豆。挨个闻过去，发现哥伦比亚、哥斯达黎加、埃塞俄比亚三地的豆子最合我意。
这趟咖啡之旅，从普洱的庄园到昆明的工厂，我也说不清到底喝了多少杯，记住了多少种风味，只记得一路都有人种豆，有人烘豆，有人尝豆。
·云南咖啡厂咖啡文化展厅
·制造于1912年的咖啡烘炒机
我刚离开昆明，浪叔就到了昆明，参加滇池咖啡节。这是他第二次以摊主身份参加这个行业盛会。他兴奋地召唤：“来了来了！又来昆明参加一年一度的行业大聚会了！今天在西岸卖酒??，快来找我偶遇，酒管够??。”
浪叔是湖南人，在北京工作17年，又在深圳闯荡过，几年前来到普洱，今年是他做咖啡的第10年。比起北京、深圳的高效繁华，他更爱这份独属于云南的松弛。咖啡节紧邻火把节，这几天滇池两岸热闹非凡。他在朋友圈写道：“山湖为幕，艺术为形，烟火为韵。这种动人的生活底色，从容自在，温柔绵长。”
·昆明滇池
这句话，或许是近些年咖啡火热的一个注脚。它不单是一种饮料，一杯打工人的“续命水”，更是一种对生活、方向、志趣的选择。
咖啡在左，牛马在右；云南在西，京深在东。
撰文 / Rain
未标注图源 /黄
原标题：《我在普洱喝了三天咖啡》
Every day when I drink coffee at a coffee shop, whether it's a 9.9 yuan Luckin or a 30 yuan special drink, I see packaged finished products. Over time, it may develop a perception similar to 'natural deficiency syndrome', that coffee should be like this, or forget or even do not know that coffee is originally a plant, a fruit like cherries, just like some urban children who grow up thinking that rice and vegetables come from supermarkets.
I want to go to the coffee producing area to see how coffee grows in the ground and on trees, as well as the process of transforming a seed into a cup of beverage. So we headed straight to Pu'er - Yunnan contributes over 98% of China's coffee production, and Pu'er is the core production area with the largest planting area and highest yield in Yunnan. Pu'er produces 58000 tons of coffee annually, accounting for nearly half of the total coffee production in the country. On the planting map of coffee in China, for every two cups of coffee beans produced, one cup comes from Pu'er, making it a true "coffee capital of China".
Located in the southwest of the the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau, Pu'er borders Yuxi and Honghe in the east, Xishuangbanna in the south, Lincang in the west, Dali and Chuxiong in the north; It borders Myanmar in the southwest. The highest temperature during the day is 28 ℃, and the feeling is quite comfortable. The shared electric bikes throughout the city have unlocked a new skill for me: riding an electric scooter and wandering around, quickly familiarizing myself with this coffee scented city.
Initial Experience of Daijiaxiang Coffee
Daijiaxiang is a coffee street in Pu'er. This alley, over 200 meters long, was once a post station on the ancient Tea Horse Road during the Qing Dynasty. There are currently 9 old buildings from the late Qing Dynasty and early Republic of China. The change began in 2021, when young entrepreneurs returning to their hometowns transformed a century old house into an experiential space that integrates coffee and cultural creativity. Subsequently, various cafes, tea houses, and cultural and creative shops emerged, creating a trend of "left-hand coffee and right-hand tea". The hottest coffee shop is full of people, and the front desk has stopped accepting orders. Orders can only be placed when available.
A sign on the street makes people laugh and take photos with it, saying 'I've been holding you back in Pu'er for a long time'. At the entrance of a coffee shop, there stands a huge avocado shaped structure, and avocado latte seems to be a major feature of Pu'er coffee. After consulting with local talents, it was found that Pu'er is also a core production area for avocados, with fresh fruit production accounting for over 80% of domestic avocados, directly replacing 15% of imported shares.
·Pu'er Daijia Lane Street View
The story of avocado can be described as a turning point. This fruit, originally from Central and South America, has truly become popular in recent years. Due to its high content of unsaturated fatty acids, it is labeled as "healthy" as a standard for light meals. But the taste of avocado, which is neither sour nor sweet, is awkward as a fruit, until it meets coffee and surpasses countless others in the world.
The richness of coffee and the richness of avocado blend together, creating a unique taste spark that has become the signature of many coffee shops. I randomly ordered a glass of avocado latte, ate avocado flavored and chewy wax alone, crushed it and blended it with coffee, and the taste really improved to a new level.
There is a Zhen Xiang coffee shop at the street corner, with the signature of handmade yogurt dirty. Stir it well and enjoy a unique flavor. Boss Lang invites passersby to "drink and drink" (the shop also sells whiskey). A regular customer sat down, ordered a cup of coffee and a glass of wine, and started chatting with someone. Listening to him chatting fluently, I consulted him about the "coffee travel" strategy in Pu'er as a coffee novice. He said he is also a 'little white' with the surname Bai.
·Mr. Lang, the owner of Zhenxiang Coffee, is roasting beans. Photo by Mr. Lang
Xiaobai is actually quite experienced. He is now a barista and has worked as a coffee training instructor before. In his opinion, Pu erh coffee truly embarked on the path of modernization and industrialization in 1988. This year, Nestle entered Pu'er and rented 8 acres of land in the suburbs to start coffee planting experiments. Driven by Nestle, in the second year, the coffee planting area in Pu'er became the largest in Yunnan Province.
Pu'er people don't seem to have any particular timing when drinking coffee, they drink it day and night. For example, when I come home at night, I put my coffee at the bedside and drink it whenever I want. I don't seem to have any reaction, but I sleep well anyway. "This reminds me of visiting Hejiang lychee before (???" Chang'an's Lychee is Deadly, Hejiang Lychee Continues Life "). People who grow lychee are not very particular about how to eat it, and pairing lychee with three yellow slices in hot pot is a routine procedure. It seems that real practitioners are a bit 'invincible'.
·The small shop in Daijiaxiang Old Street
Over the years, tens of thousands of people have come to Pu'er to learn coffee, from all over the country and even the world. Pu'er is somewhat similar to the Shaolin Temple in the coffee industry. Xiaobai has had contact with students from various Southeast Asian countries, as well as Switzerland, Italy, the United States, and other places. They traveled and studied in Pu'er. The cost of a high-end course is 16000 yuan. For example, if you come from Chengdu, your airfare, food, accommodation, and transportation will cost around 30000 yuan for 10 days
According to local media reports in Pu'er, "Pu'er is embarking on a new path of integrated development of 'talent+industry+cultural tourism' through the Pu'er barista training support program, gradually shaping a new image of a vibrant 'entrepreneurial city'
Someone is using an old-fashioned hand cranked bean dryer to dry beans on the street, which is like a display or performance, and passersby can also experience it. That machine is dark and resembles a popcorn machine with thick patina, but the baked beans are very fragrant. I said, how does it feel more fragrant than coffee in Chengdu. Uncle Lang said, "Where is it? It's the same. The coffee in Chengdu is very strong, and the competition is fierce. I have gone to investigate
Fresh, "Xiaobai said," because it's fresh
Yes, you're right, to the point. I can't agree more.
·The coffee shop in Pu'er Old Street
Coffee Plantation's "Nine Cups" Fully Managed
Since it's a 'coffee shop', you must go to the coffee plantation. Unfortunately, the weather forecast is for rain all week, and considering the news of various flash floods and mudslides, whether to go or not is a question. Just hesitating, it began to rain rainstorm. People scattered to take shelter from the rain, and the streets were shrouded in smoke and rain. In the afternoon, the rain stopped and the sun came out. I decisively took a taxi up the mountain to go to Xiaocaozi Coffee Plantation.
Xiaoaozi Coffee Manor is about 30 minutes' drive from the main urban area of Puer, with 300 mu of ecological coffee forest, 1100 meters above sea level, surrounded by green mountains, clouds and mist, and the mountains are covered with jackfruit the size of football.
The estate was founded in 1997 and has now been passed down to its third generation. At present, this is a composite space that integrates research, sightseeing, tasting, and vacation. The movie 'Home at One O'Clock' was filmed here, telling the story of three young people who return from a big city to start a business in an ancient village in Yunnan. This plot is similar in spirit to the three generations of people who devote themselves to the coffee industry at Xiao'aozi Coffee Plantation.
·Young people singing on their own at the Lakeside Concert Hall
The entrance ticket is 60 yuan, including one explanation, 9 flavors of hand brewed coffee, and unlimited refills. The reception hall of the estate is like a waiting hall for a forest station. As soon as you enter the hall, staff will guide you to your seat. I sat at the bar, watching the barista make coffee while tasting 9 different flavors of coffee.
The first one served is fruit peel tea, which has a refreshing sour and sweet taste. The staff explained that fruit peel tea is a type of tea made from coffee skin and fruit pulp through processes such as drying and fermentation. Fresh coffee fruit looks like cherries. In the past, when people were picking up the green coffee beans inside, the outer skin and flesh were often discarded as waste. With the deepening of coffee utilization, people have discovered that coffee peels contain natural sugar and aroma, and the brewed tea has the flavor of dried fruits such as red dates and hawthorn, making it a particularly healthy beverage with a unique taste.
·Tourists drinking coffee at the coffee plantation
Continuing with 'First Love'. This is the name of a very popular boutique coffee bean and also the signature flavor of the estate. There are several interesting details about this bean: the estate was founded on February 14, 1997 (Valentine's Day), and the current owner also got married on Valentine's Day, so this bean was named "First Love". Although a bit far fetched, the taste is as its name suggests, with a hint of sweet, sour, and bitter, resembling love. Then there are "Encounter", "Honey of the Concave", "Charm of the Concave", "Sunflower", and so on. In the end, the taste buds have lost their ability to taste, and they all feel the same flavor, regardless of lightness or lightness.
After drinking coffee, I started to educate and refresh my mind. Everyone arrived at a conference room on the second floor, and the staff opened the PPT and began his witty and humorous explanation (talk show performance)——
·Introduction to Coffee Knowledge in Coffee Plantations
The name of the estate can be pronounced as either 'ao' or 'wa', as long as it doesn't read 'tu'. ”
The coffee seedlings in the field, how many do you want to pull out? Everyone, take them back and remember three points: don't be hungry, don't be cold, don't be hot. Don't be hungry, have sufficient nutrients; don't be cold, not lower than 8 ℃; don't be hot, not higher than 38 ℃, so the climate between the Tropic of Cancer and Capricorn is more suitable
Planting lychee trees, banana trees, durian trees, and mango trees next to the coffee tree, does it affect the taste? Have you ever eaten mango flavored potatoes? No, it hasn't. Pollination on the same plant is not affected by other fruit trees. If you buy coffee with pineapple, mango, or lychee flavors, don't buy it, it's definitely a scam. Technology must be added to it
Is it good to drink a cup of coffee on an empty stomach in the morning? Remember, coffee is usually not consumed on an empty stomach. Caffeine stimulates gastric wall cells to secrete stomach acid, and high concentrations of stomach acid can directly stimulate the gastric mucosa, so it is recommended to drink it with food
Alright everyone, the coffee we usually drink is called 'Niu Ma Coffee', right? What's the name of the coffee we came to the estate to drink today? The coffee we drank today was' Niu Ma's coffee for you '. Sigh, I'll go and be here every day, making coffee. Thank you all
The explanation is over, and I'm ready to take some coffee seedlings back. At this moment, it started to rain again, so I had to continue drinking coffee. That afternoon, I drank the most coffee I've ever had, and I was really exhausted. Anyway, I have to catch the early train to Kunming the next day, so I'm not afraid of insomnia.
In Kunming, as the last stop of the "coffee tourism", I went to Yunnan Coffee Factory. This is China's first modern coffee processing plant, a joint project between China and the United Nations Development Programme in 1992. Its completion and operation ended the history of China without modern coffee factories.
There is a coffee culture center in Yunnan coffee shops, where you can learn about the history of Yunnan coffee, observe old machines and tree species up close, and experience courses such as hand brewing, latte art, and baking. On the exhibition wall, there is a row of "coffee aroma bottles" containing coffee beans from around the world. Smelling them one by one, I found that the beans from Colombia, Costa Rica, and Ethiopia were the most suitable for me.
On this coffee journey, from the Pu erh estate to the factory in Kunming, I can't even say how many cups I drank or how many flavors I remembered. I only remember that there were people planting beans, roasting beans, and tasting beans along the way.
·Yunnan Coffee Factory Coffee Culture Exhibition Hall
·Coffee roasting machine manufactured in 1912
I just left Kunming, and Uncle Lang arrived in Kunming to participate in the Dianchi Coffee Festival. This is his second time participating in this industry event as a vendor. He excitedly called out, "Here we are! We're back in Kunming for the annual industry gathering! Selling alcohol on the west coast today? Come and meet me, enough alcohol management
Lang Shu is from Hunan and has worked in Beijing for 17 years. He has also ventured into Shenzhen and came to Pu'er a few years ago. This year marks his 10th year making coffee. Compared to the efficiency and prosperity of Beijing and Shenzhen, he loves this relaxation that belongs exclusively to Yunnan. The Coffee Festival is adjacent to the Torch Festival, and in recent days, both sides of Dianchi Lake have been bustling with activity. He wrote on his social media account, "Mountains and lakes are the curtains, art is the form, and fireworks are the melody. This touching color of life is calm, comfortable, gentle, and long-lasting
·Kunming Dianchi Lake
This sentence may be a footnote to the popularity of coffee in recent years. It is not only a beverage, a cup of "life-saving water" for working people, but also a choice for life, direction, and interests.
Coffee on the left, cows and horses on the right; Yunnan is in the west, while Beijing and Shenzhen are in the east.
Writing/Rain
Unmarked source/yellow
Original title: "I drank coffee in Pu'er for three days"